Newsletter

I started writing a newsletter twice a year to send to the “folks back home” so they could keep up with the changes in our lives and it has served as a diary of our adventures out here since deciding to re-locate to a foreign country. Some of you reading this may be thinking of doing the same and will find it interesting to discover (as we did) that not all countries do things in quite the same way. Others may just enjoy the humour of our trials and tribulations….

So, if you are sitting comfortably, I'll start at the very beginning……….

We've arrived safe and sound !

We moved in here 28th April 2002 with our 17-year-old ginger tom cat Alley who was truly amazing the whole journey down, sitting on my lap most of the time looking out of the window and walking on a harness when needing a comfort stop - much to the amusement of people enjoying their lunch.

Our house was described as “habitable” which, in French estate agent language, means it will have a sink and a light bulb and that is all that is legally required. Therefore, our first night was spent camped out on the floor on two blow-up beds (have you ever tried sleeping on one of those?), with me living in dread of Alley's claws ripping a hole and the air whooshing out. But we were excited at the prospect of Gordon's brother, Graham and his new fiancée Shirley, arriving the next morning with our furniture. We rolled out of bed and went downstairs to make a cup of coffee in order to be ready and waiting for when they arrived - more about the electrics later, dear reader.

Well, the van appeared and we heaved and strained getting it all offloaded, some into the house and the rest into the attached barn. The plan was for Graham and Shirley to stay with us the night and go back the next morning, but for some reason, they took one look at the interior of the house and said, “Oh no, it's all right, we'll find a hotel and set off from there”. No stamina or pioneer spirit, we thought.

Now you would think that was that, wouldn't you? But, oh dear no, when we looked at our worldly goods we found we only had half, meaning Gordon was going to have to fly back, hire another vehicle, drive it down and back again and then fly home. Which he did, God Bless him.. My biggest panic came when I realised I was going to have to drive (on the wrong side of the road) in our English car to the airport to pick him up.. I did it, of course, but there was a lot of talking to myself en route, I can tell you.

Our first day in our new home dawned and we eagerly went downstairs to our kitchen to find the hot water tank above the sink didn’t work. NO HOT WATER. “Never mind” says Gordon “we’ll fix that”. Then the toilet didn’t work – “never mind” says Gordon “we’ll fix that”

So we went out to the local plumbing bits and pieces supplier. Ordered what we needed and then asked “when can these be fitted?” “Oh, two or three weeks”, he said…. ! Gordon pointed out, with much gesticulating, that two or three weeks would probably render us so smelly no sane person would come within shouting distance. “Hhhmmm”, said Fred “I see what you mean” and he ran off through the shop saying “follow me, follow me” which we did only to find he had run outside and was speaking to an English plumber who had just bought a hot water tank of the size we wanted and he had persuaded him to let us have it (and to fit it) and he would wait for the other one. Within two days we had this new hot water tank fitted giving us hot water in the kitchen, bathroom and, as Gordon had by then fixed the loo, we could look after all our personal needs. Bliss !

The “current” situation

About 200 years ago when this house was built there wasn’t much call for electricity, I guess, and we have found a few bits of wire here and there have been added to give the appearance of an electrical system. But, when we called in the local electrician (one Claude Deleger, now retired) to check it all out, there was much sucking in of breath and shrugging of shoulders. Up to this point we had to decide which appliance we wanted to use at any one time. Note: I said appliance, in the singular . Those of you who are soft enough to be used to being able to boil a kettle, have hot water on tap, radiators keeping your house warm etc. all at the same time, might not appreciate just how spoiled you have become. However, dear M. Deleger gave us a quote for renewing the existing wiring, putting in radiators for the central heating and we agreed on a starting date. More on this to come……….

What are the neighbours like?

Now, the one thing you don’t know when you buy a new home is what kind of bad habits your new neighbours may have.

Well, we found out pretty soon that our new neighbours shout all day long from about 6.30 am till dusk; they scratch constantly, they eat anything they can reach and they pooh whenever and wherever they feel like it.

That’s the chickens and sheep taken care of, then.

Their owners, however, are delightful. They are Andre and Suzanne and their farmhouse is next to ours. They have been so helpful with information and cups of coffee. Absolutely charming. They seem to be constantly moving livestock up and down the road no matter what the weather. Alley cat has never seen a chicken or a duck or a goose or a sheep or a cow and, if his eyes get any bigger, I think they will pop ! He’s been chased by just about everything for being a little too curious, especially by “Rudi” the big red rooster. One of the white chickens (which I have named Blanche) comes looking for Gordon every day – could I have a rival for his affections here?

I realise all these furred and feathered creatures are bred for the table but it will still be a sad day when Blanche no longer comes to call…….

And the wall's came a-tumblin' down

So it begins... We decided that the first room to be done (for practical reasons) had to be the kitchen. French law dictates the only things which must be left when the house is sold are a sink and a light bulb and that is what we had; no hot water as the ballon is useless, we have a very attractive strip light (not) and a few ancient fifties cupboards (filthy, needless to say) and nothing else. Cooker, what cooker? Anyway, I digress. We were convinced there would be oak beams above the grotty ceiling so, with courage in hand (and a crowbar) Gordon mounted the steps and took an almight whack....! As he was behind a sheet screen, to keep the dust from flying too far, I was a bit worried when I heard (Oh, bugger) but after another whack and a general clatter of plaster he said "Aaaah" and there it was, an enormous oak beam. Spurrred on by his success he proceeded across the ciling until he had uncovered more beams which will completely transform the kitchen. I can't even begin to tell you what came down with the plaster but if I explain that the attic space above used to be a grain store before the bedrooms were created you can imagine what fell down on us - long since dead creatures, old wasp nests etc. Not very pleasant, I can tell you. Once all the old lathe and plaster ceiling was down we thought we would take out the wall and doorway and make the stairs an integral part of the kitchen.

Of ghoulies and ghosties and long legged beasties, and things that go bump in the night......

The first week or so here was a rude awakening for me (quite litereally).

I was in bed on my own as Gordon had to go back to UK for more furniture. It was cold and wet so I had three layers of clothes on and about the same number of layers of bedding. Ali was on the bed with me trying to keep warm when we both woke up to the most amazing cacophony of noise above us. Scratching, hissing, thumping, scrabbling. I looked at Ali and he looked at me before tucking his head under his arm as if to say "if you think I'm doing anything about that, you are sadly mistaken". So we both went under the bedclothes and tried to ignore it.

The next day dawned and I asked Suzanne next door what the noises were and she replied "Ah, c'est une chouette" and, as she was smiling and not looking at all concerned I said "Okay" and came back home.

A few days later, I was in the Town Hall doing something or other and this was still bothering me so I asked if someone could tell me what une chouette is. the young girl smiled (so no worry there, I thought) and she promptly bent down behind the counter and produced a stuffed barn owl mounted on a branch and proudly said "c'est une chouette".

I'm left wondering, is he/she our first house guest or are we his/hers?

If you have enjoyed this page and would like to read more, keep looking on the web site for the next instalment………………

Who knows, some of you may become regular readers and will have questions; no problem just email me, if we have the answers we'll be glad to pass them on.

NEXT INSTALLMENT 2003 - One year on.......

I can hardly believe a whole year has passed by since we made our life-changing move. On the one hand it seems much longer as we have settled so quickly and on the other, it's like it happened only yesterday.

So much has changed. For the first time, we are part of a community; our little hamlet is only seven houses (and two of them unoccupied) but we have been taken in by our neighbours as if we are part of their family. We help out moving their animals from field to field, we are invited to share a glass of wine, a piece of cake, coffee and a chat and, although I am struggling with the language at the moment, we get by.

We held off on the renovation front last summer as we felt it wasn't fair on our guests to have bits of plaster falling in their cornflakes.

Our cars have been re-registered with French number plates.

We have neogitated ourselves through the legal requirements, assurances, health care, shopping, telephones and all sorts of other things, but when it comes to the evening I am so pleased to be able to tune into English TV to give my brain a rest. And, the best bit, I have Wogan in the morning!

We have chickens (thanks to Suzanne, our neighbour giving me some on my Saints day), and now a gorgeous black labrador called Ebene. Alley cat has a few reservations but we shall see.....

2003 summer was hot temperatures soaring to 48 degrees. I went back to UK for my niece's wedding which was lovely but I was so pleased to come home.

Gordon and I returned once more to UK (with Ebene this time) for the wedding of Gordon's brother to the lovely Shirley. But, again, we were so glad to come home.

Had a laugh one night when Ebene started barking; our shutters were closed so couldbn't see out. She wouldn't quieten down so we went outside to see a ghostly white shadow next door. Ebene went crazy. When we looked closer we realised it was the pig from next door who had broken out of its barn, just kicked the door down and was running around. Well, we went and found Suzanne who came out with a tiny torch and we chased this thing round and round until we managed to re-house it by which time the turkies has scattered, the ducks had gone AWOL. It took another hour to get them all (bar one duck) back where they belonged. Looking back, it would have made a great movie - three people, one tiny torch all sliding around in the mud and chicken pooh calling "cuckoo" to anything which might have a feather. The TV seemed a bit tame that night.....

2004 Already, where does the time go? We had quite a bit of snow this winter - great for taking the dog for a walk. One morning I watched the hens sliding down the roof just like a Walt Disney cartoon. Fabulous!

On the sad side, our beloved cat Alley passed away. The last two years of his 19 year life were like a paradise for him. He had so much pleasure from his new surroundings. But he has been replaced by two other little treasures who follow Ebene around all over the place.

The kitchen is now nearly finished, the floor is tiled, I have a cooker and plenty of hot water and electricity whenever I want it............... WOW!

The Tour de France passes near here this year so we will see that. What an event that is. There is an enormous build up before the cyclists pass by. For about two hours all sorts of vehicles come through, various sponsors chucking out samples of food and drink, pens, T-shirts, all kinds of things. No wonder the French are passionate about the sport, they put on such a good show.

I did a really silly thing and should have know better, moving some cows a ran across uneven ground and did some damage to my knee which has taken three months to heal - not 100% but getting there. Fed up walking with a stick.

We had a visit from the planning department, the mayor etc. who wanted to know what we were going to do about purifying our water as the law had changed and we must all treat our water before it goes out across the land and on down into the lake at Chateauneuf.

In the afternoon we had another visit from the planning department (and the Mayor again) but this time they wanted to go over our plans for the gites in the barn. Much waving of arms, one lady saying we couldn't do this and we couldn't do that. We referred her to our architect who later had quite a bit to say to her about rubbishing his plans.

We wait in great expectation...........

2005 has come after a long, cold winter. Lots of snow, temperatures of minus 15 degrees.

This year we are going to put in another shower room, wc and decorate the spare bedroom to take in B&B guests. Lots of work for everyone - by that, I mean Gordon's brother, Graham, his wife Shirley and, of course, us. Not to mention Andre, next door, with his tractor.

It all went very well until I let a huge stone clatter down the stairs and chipped one of our new kitchen tiles. Huge stone from where, I hear you ask. Well, the shower room and wc are in the attic which meant I hacked my way through the wall at the top of the stairs...... Ooooops!

I am about to learn something else new, as I go into rabbit-breeding (for the table, of course). I am now confident dealing with the chickens and have had several chicks hatch out so all is well on that front. Now is the time to extend our meat production and everyone round here has rabbits. Suzanne has promised to teach me everything.

We already have a clapier (rabbit hutch)

which was here when the house was built some 200 hundred years ago. It is in traditional style for this area and we really love it. The local mayor was concerned we might pull it down and was pleased when we said we wouldn't. Then laughed when we suggested we use it for the Japanese as overnight accommodation. You know, like those pods they have over there. Anyway, Pascale has arrived, our first rabbit. She is big and brown, absolutely lovely. I amazed Suzanne when I suggested I get a male for her. "Why" she asked. I didn't want to upset her by saying "well, she can't make the babies on her own, can she" Anyway, she said she had a male (Jeremy) who was being fed, why would I have another just to sit around not earning his keep...... A very French approach on how everything is for a reason............. take heed all you couch potatoes, you wouldn't last long out here.

Summer produced a really crop of fruit and vegetables which have been preserved in jams, bottles, the freezer, whatever I could find.

Gordon helped with the sheep shearing by being a catcher - shepherds crook an' all. All went well until one threw him across the barn onto the straw. Of course, they all laughed (the men, not the sheep) at this English man flat on his back in the mire. We had a 4-course lunch prepared by me and Suzanne before returning to the shearing. Pity the first ones after all that wine. I can tell you they were all hanging back saying "no, after you" to each other.

September and our first B&B guests are here. What fun. It is so interesting hearing about other peoples lives, their hopes and dreams. We all sit around the table at dinner and chat. Yes, I am chef again. I just knew all those years of being a cook would come in handy.

We have had spectacular storms this year resulting in fires, loss of electricity, loss of a TV, video, DVD, phone, printers etc. More forms to fill in, insurance claims........

We have our first litter of rabbits, only four but they are beautiful. A taste (quite literally) of things to come.....

2006 We now have four adult rabbits for our breeding programme. Pascale, who you have met already, has been joined by Arnaud (he's white with black patches), Cecile (Arnaud's sister) who is hedgehog colour and Gerard (one of Pascale's sons).

The B&B is doing well, a nice, steady trickle of clients coming and going. Just the job to ease me into this new way of life.

Our priorities have changed, we now have time to appreciate all the things around us, we have time to stop and stare (and often do). It's the simple things now, the pleasure of being with friends, swapping stories about falling over in a cow pat, watching a truly beautiful insect fly by. We have no interest whatsover in buying the latest gadget. What we have here is peace, peace of mind, peace of knowing where you belong, the peace of being at one with the land and the seasons.

Sounds romantic and unbelievable? Maybe. But until you experience it, you just wouldn't know. We are often asked "would you go back?" and the answer is always the same "never". So we are truly living the dream. It may not be for everyone, but we are truly blessed.

This year is managed to dust off my paint brushes (the little ones for painting pictures, not the walls) and I hope to find the time to do more. I used to do quite a bit, I like animals (you don't say) and buildings (and they are wonderful here) but it means being quite selfish with my time and that is something I will have to learn.

We have had a lot of house hunters this year staying with us. Is this a sign of the times? We see things changing in UK, not always for the best, so maybe this is why so many people are opting out as we have done.

We have another addition to our menagerie. A tiny rescue kitten found shivering on the road who we have name Purdee (a reshuffle of the letters perdue, which means lost in French). She is three-coloured, very sweet.

This year I made wine from our own grapes which grow outside the kitchen window - bottled and labelled Chateau Holdsworth, a fruity, full bodied red. Very nice.

2007 Wow, five years...............

~Retirement is good to us, (we are both pensioners now); we do what we want, when we want according to what our bodies tell us we can. Yes, we have a few creaks now and again, but we continue with the B&B, Gordon is working on the first gite (we now have planning permission) with the help of his brother, Graham, (what would we do without him), Andre and other friends come to give a lift to a beam whenever asked.

My French is now pretty good, all thanks to Suzanne, and Gordon is working really hard on improving his.

We watch for signs of nature changing as do our neighbours, the cranes flying over in March portending warmer weather for Spring and October which always, always brings a cold snap ten days later. The swallows arrived early (March) and stayed until late in the year.

We have had a really good year with the B&B leaving us with not a lot of time to go sightseeing although we did manage a few picnics.

Our neighbours officially retired this year (he at 70, she at 60) and they celebrated by roasting two sheep on an open spit, a four-course lunch for 60 people (us being the only English). What a fantastic day, we are so lucky.

There was a bit of a wobble on the vegetable front this year when most potatoes and tomatoes were wiped out by doryphore (Colorado beetle) which are rife here. They are evil smelling things when squashed, spraying doesn't always get rid of them all and everyone round here was going about scratching their heads and mumbling "catastrophe". Overall, we had a good result afterwards, though, with fruit and vegetables stored to see us through the winter.

2008 This year we intend getting the first gite up and running which means we will be working all hours to make this happen.

Visitors have been few and far between this winter as the credit crunch hits UK and America. Last year we had people staying throughout the year but things have slowed down during Winter, so we wait for Spring for an improvement.

Jan and February brought us snow which remained on and off until March. Sub-zero temperatures which remained until the beginning of April when they improved, rising from a morning start of 7 degrees to 12 degrees during the day.

We saw the first cranes fly over at the end of February and they continued for a couple of weeks, this usually signifies a change in the weather and, low and behold, on the 19th March we had a return to sub-zero days!

April was the start of grass cutting for the year - and also our first visitors. Weather improving but the news from UK on crime, pollution, credit squeeze is quite depressing to hear as it is obvious people are starting to have a really hard time.

We continue working on the gite as we are confident things must get better.

Weather improves to highs of 22 degrees during May and the visitors start to dribble in althought it is still very clear there are a lot of people struggling with bills and problems selling houses which will stop them making the move to France.

June and July brought us a few more clients, including some house hunters who were lucky enough to have sold a house which put them in a good position to buy here although on the whole the situations seems to remain the same for most people in UK.

Good news is we are almost full for August, including the first bedroom in the gite so we must crack on to get it ready! Up and working at 4:30 am until lunch time when it gets so very hot (up to 45 degrees ), far too hot to work - must get the insulation in the roof done!

Phew........ It's now nearly the end of September and we can, at last, draw breath. It's been really busy here since the start of Summer (we are not complaining, you understand) but we are just getting back to our normal routine as the last guests left here two days ago and we now have a little break.

In the midst of all the usual B & B comings and goings, we celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary and marked it by spit roasting a sheep (bought from next door). 45 people came to join us, the weather was glorious and our friends Pam and Malcolm offered to provide the music. Among the crowd were 16 or so of our French neighbours and friends who do not speak a word of English but they thoroughly enjoyed the whole "do" and it gave our English friends the chance to practice their new language.

The credit crunch and financial collapse in America and UK has affected us somewhat because the house hunters stopped for a while and we had pure holiday makers - some English, some Dutch. In fact, one night we had the tables laid up in the garden, candles, the lot for eleven Dutch holidaymakers who were great. We did a barbeque for them, much to the amusement of our neighbours who must have wondered what on earth was going on here ! All these people chattering and laughing in yet another foreign language.

We have two new additions to our "family" - a pair of white geese named Holly and Gandalf. You will have realised that, as we have named them, we are not going to eat these two but hope they will lay eggs and, perhaps, produce some little ones of their own.

We originally bought just one for Christmas lunch but she is pretty cute wandering around the garden, great fun to watch, so we decided to get her a toy boy and see how they get on. And they get on just fine, always together (which is good seeing as they mate for life, or so I am told) and they eat grass and drink water all day long. So we have our own mowing machines at work! I did suggest we got some more and taught them to work in formation but Gordon didn't seem to think it would work............. Shame, good idea, though.